Watch specifications

Reference Number
3970ER
Production Year
1990
Original Date of Sale
1990
Size
36 mm
Material
18K rose gold
Dial Color
Silvered with applied rectangular batons
Watch Movement
Manual caliber 27-70Q
Accompanied By
Extract from the Archives, copy of the Original Certificate or Origin, fitted box, extra spare back, 18K pink gold folding buckle and stylus
CSKU
OC4588

Story behind the watch

The ref. 3970 was released in 1986 and replaced the ref. 2499 as the flagship perpetual calendar chronograph of the marque. Utilizing a Patek Philippe finished Lemania caliber, rather than the Valjoux caliber of its predecessor, the ref. 3970 remained in production for almost 20 years.

This second series example was last sold publicly June 14, 2007 by Antiquorum, New York and had at the time its original Patek Certificate of Origin and papers from Patek Philippe Japan. Today, the watch still retains a copy of this Certificate of Origin, Extract from the Archives, fitted box, buckle and setting pin. However, the most important feature of ‘The Japanese Rose’ is the fact that it has two backs, a feature rarely seen on a second series. The extra sapphire back was only made upon special request and in this case for an important Japanese customer. Together with the second series dial featuring batons and feuille hands, this watch is an exciting addition to a collection, or to have the opportunity to own an important early ref. 3970, one of the earliest examples with two case backs.

Today, many collectors find the ref. 3970 the ultimate ‘bargain’ of Patek Philippe’s high complication watches.  However, be warned, interest in this reference is growing by the minute. Astute buyers are seeing the ref. 3970 for what it is: a benchmark reference that is only growing in popularity and becoming the trophy purchase of a new generation of collectors. Much has been written on the reference (and more in the works) but it is highly recommended you read Cara Barrett’s ‘In-Depth’ article on Hodinkee to get a detailed overview of the ref. 3970.

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How it works

Our team of watch experts is dedicated to ensuring you receive the best possible service buying your luxury timepiece.

1

Find a Patek Philippe you like

Explore the available Patek Philippe watches on the website.

2

Know the watch

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3

Make the purchase

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4

Receive the watch

You will receive your watch securely packaged in our box, complete with its accompaniments.

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Buy a watch

Every timepiece is personally inspected and authenticated by our founder, John Reardon, one of the world’s leading experts on Patek Philippe. The case, dial, movement, and, when applicable, the buckle and bracelet are examined before a watch is offered for sale. Whenever possible, we include the original Certificate of Origin or an Extract from the Archives. If a watch is offered without one, we will always explain why - for example, if Patek Philippe declined to issue an Extract from the Archives because a dial was changed at some point in the watch's history.

We take pride in offering watches in the condition in which we acquired them. We avoid unnecessary interventions such as polishing or dial refinishing. If a movement requires repair, it is serviced by our select group of trusted specialists, including Patek Philippe-trained watchmakers.

Yes. We guarantee the authenticity of every Patek Philippe timepiece we sell. If a watch purchased from us is ever determined to have a previously unknown issue, we will cancel the sale and refund the full purchase price. This authenticity guarantee lasts three years from the date of sale and applies only to the original purchaser. It covers the watch as a whole, not individual components. All trademarks mentioned are the property of their respective owners. Collectability is an independent business and is not an authorized Patek Philippe dealer nor affiliated with Patek Philippe SA.

Every watch purchased from Collectability is guaranteed to be in working order for one year from the date of sale. If it stops functioning properly during that period (and hasn’t been damaged or mishandled), we’ll repair or adjust it free of charge.

Vintage and pre-owned watches should never be considered water resistant, even if they were originally designed as such. We recommend avoiding exposure to water, shocks, or magnetic fields.

For most timepieces, with the exception of consigned pieces, if you decide your timepiece is not right for you, you can return it within three business days for a full refund. We’ll provide a return shipping label and issue your refund upon safe receipt of the watch.

We accept secure payments via bank transfer only.

Yes. All shipments are insured until they reach you via a trusted courier.

Returns are accepted within three business days of delivery for a full refund. We’ll provide a prepaid label and issue the refund upon safe receipt of the watch.

We’ll arrange immediate repair or adjustment under the terms of our one-year working guarantee.

Within the first year, repairs within reason are covered. After this period, we can coordinate servicing with our watchmaking partners at your expense, with an estimate provided before any work begins.

Yes. Many clients choose to have us coordinate ongoing maintenance or service.

Testimonials

Tom P

“Just received a watch this morning purchased through Collectability. From start to finish it was a pleasurable experience and went very smoothly. Collectability definitely has the most interesting and quality curated inventory of vintage Patek Philippe I have seen. 10/10 would recommend.”

JH

September 2025

“Downsizing my life in many ways big and small. Checked several sources looking for a reputable buyer of Patek Philippe. John’s name came to the top of the list as an expert. I reached out to him and he offered a very fair price (I had gone to other dealers and researched online)He offered several w…”

Doc

July 2025

“I’ve had the pleasure of purchasing two vintage Patek Philippe watches from Collectibility, and I couldn’t be more satisfied with the entire experience. From the initial inquiry to post-purchase support, the service provided has been nothing short of exceptional. John Reardon is a true authority wh…”

Marc

June 2025

“I bought a watch and John and Tania could not have been better to deal with.”

Gerhard Z

June 2025

“John is THE authority on everything Patek Philippe! He is not only trustworthy, but also a genuine pleasure to talk with!”

Peter S

May 2025

“I am a New York City physician and distinctly honored to have recently purchased several exquisite, rare, pristine and well-priced Patek Philippe timepieces and accessories from John Reardon, founder of Collectability. John is the real deal you can't find anywhere else when it comes to being knowle…”

David T

April 2025

“I just opened the box with the Patek Philippe watch and paperwork from Collectability. Not only is the watch stunning, but the quality of the packaging and the overall presentation was the best I have ever seen. I am extremely impressed. You really made the buying experience absolutely first class.…”

Robert M

March 2025

“John was very patient. I thought I knew a lot about Patek Philippe since I worked in an authorized dealership many years ago. I was wrong. As a lifelong Patek fan, I really appreciate the patience and assistance. My watch is amazing. Every aspect of my purchase exceeded expectations. Thank you!”

BLN

February 2025

“Collectability’s integrity, knowledge and service elevate an enjoyable hobby to a passionate quest for scholarship and collection. I have dealt with the team at multiple occasions over the years, and what I found truly remarkable is the combination of generosity in sharing knowledge and unmatched e…”

Andres N

January 2025

“You [John Reardon] and your team are really amazing and some of us are very fortunate that we not only have been able to get some amazing Patek Philippe pieces through you, but we have learned a lot as part of the process.”

Marc B

December 2024

“Over the past 4 years, I have bought and sold over a dozen Patek Philippe timepieces with Collectability. John Reardon and Tania Edwards are not only world-class experts when it comes to Patek Philippe, they are also world-class individuals. They set the bar high for everything from the educational…”