[Heinz Klausner]

Dear all,
I refer to Neue Zürcher Zeitung, NZZ supplement, Content Creation, November 2023.
There I read a story by Audemars Piguet about their enamel dials. AP mentioned in an interesting article their collaboration with Anita Porchet, the swiss leading enamel artist in the watch industry.
Prior to that the Stern Family always highlighted their special collaboration with Anita. Does this mean, that Anita Porchet no longer is working with Patek Philippe or is she working for both Companies?
Who knows more?

[Fabrizio]

Hello Heinz,

this is Fabrizio (FabR), the Patek moderator for WatchProSite and a long-term reader of this site. I’ll be glad to briefly answer your question. Anita Porchet is one of the most talented and decorated enamellers in the horological world, and she does indeed have a special relationship with Patek, going back to Philippe Stern’s presidency. However, she has always freelanced for a number of brands. At a quick Google search, you’ll find information on some of Anita’s recent collaborations, including with other independent brands.

I’m sure Anita will continue to work for Patek Philippe for years to come. We’ll probably see a few more of her dials as part of the upcoming 2024 Rare Handcraft collection, and I hope (but have no info yet!) that she can also collaborate for the Rare Handcrafts currently in the works for the next ‘Watch Art’ Grand Exhibition, to take place in my home country (Milano, Italy, Sept. 2025).

You can learn more about Anita’s work for Patek and much more by listening to this 2022 podcast for Collectability.

Best wishes,
FabR

[Heinz Klausner]

To FabR:

Thanks so much for your comprehensive answer. May I ask you more abaut the enamal dials of the PP 5231G. Do you know who elaborates those dials and where (country) they are made?

In Switzerland circulate some rumors that Patek Philippe nowadays “produces” enamel dials in Romania?! I hardly believe that. I strongly hope that PP fosters their own young talents in Geneva. It seams obvious that Anita Porchet is not capable to elaborate all the enamel works.

Best regards,

Heinz

[Heinz Klausner]

Dear Fabrizio
In the meantime I heard the mentioned Podcast. Very interesting, especially her explanation about preserving the traditional arts of enameling, the differences to industrial produced pieces.
I hope her special relationship with Patek Philippe, going back to Philippe Stern’s presidency, will last for many many years to come.

Best wishes

Heinz

[Fabrizio]

Hello Heinz,

I, too, would hardly believe anyone attempting to spread (comic) rumors! 🙂 To the best of my knowledge, even Patek’s in-catalog enamel production — Refs. 5131 and, currently, 5231 — is entirely the work of (several) talented local artisans. And I have no reason to believe this will change anytime soon, despite the increase in demand that all Rare Handcrafts have witnessed in recent years. Anita Porchet and her atelier collaborated with Patek chiefly for the white metal versions of Ref. 5131, while I understand that she’s not involved with the 5231 line. Interestingly though, she has been in charge of the new (also in-catalog, but much more exclusive!) minute repeater Ref. 5531G, which was announced earlier this year.

Please note that, consistently with a less “elaborate” execution of the dials, each 5131 and 5231 iteration has been produced in much greater numbers than any of the out-of-catalog models of the past two decades: Refs. 5075, 5076, 5077, 5089, 5738, 5177, etc., and this year’s gorgeous new entry, Ref. 5189. Two years ago, Patek quietly began communicating exact numbers for its out-of-catalog production, which I appreciated a lot (I often included them in my WPS announcements, since they didn’t seem available anywhere else). And I can tell you that none of these dials was ever produced in more than 6 to 10 units!

However, a peculiarity that has characterized Patek’s approach to horology for nearly 185 years is to *never* compromise on quality. You can trust that the relatively more accessible Refs. 5131 and 5231 are no exception. In fact, I could easily make an argument that, on average, Patek’s Rare Handcrafts have dramatically improved over time, across the entire range.

Let me just close my brief couple of posts by saying that, as is probably well known, the broader topic you brought up is very dear to my heart. I view Rare Handcrafts as the highest encounter between art and horology, and their importance and cultural influence extend well beyond enamel. As a fortunate collector and passionate ‘student’ of these marvels, I like to indicate wood marquetry, hand engraving, enamel, and miniature painting as the four “main” crafts (even though Patek’s work in other areas, such as gemsetting and guilloché, is no less spectacular!).

It is only thanks to the visionary and romantic efforts of the last two generations of the Stern family that some ancient Genevan crafts are being enjoyed to this day… and I’m incredibly happy that they’ve now become big favorites of top collectors and connoisseurs the world over! 🙂

Cheers,
FabR

[Heinz Klausner]

Dear Fabrizio

I appreciate very much that you share your immense knowledge with me – thanks a lot! I am also thankful that John Reardon and his team stated this Forum and I wish them all the best.

Fabrizio, your answer has a calming effect. I too believe that the Stern Family never would compromise on quality.

By the way I am a lucky owner of a PP5131R. Sometimes i am wondering how many of them were made.

My next acquisition could be a PP 3970 2nd Series. I submitted some questions to the reference.

Best regards,

Heinz

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