PATEK PHILIPPE YELLOW GOLD OFFICER ANNIVERSARY WATCH

For its time-only anniversary watch in 1989, Patek Philippe looked to the past to create a classic design for the future. Inspired by the type of timepieces used by front-line officers in the First World War – basically, a hunter pocket watch strapped to the wrist to save time checking the time (and potentially a life) by looking quickly at their wrist, rather than pulling out a pocket watch. Made in 18K yellow gold, white gold or platinum, the caliber 215 PS movement is hidden under an elegant, hinged hunter case over a dust-cover back engraved with the movement number and text commemorating the 150th anniversary. Further differentiating this from previous Calatrava models, the ref. 3960’s Bassine-style case with Louis XV winding crown, has screwed-in bars between the lugs instead of a spring-bar, a screwed-in buckle bar, a porcelain-white dial marked with Breguet numerals and a railway-track dial, all of which emphasize the turn of the century look of the watch. This classic design was later used to inspire the ladies’ ref. 4960, men’s ref. 5022 and the quintessential Officer’s Campaign watch ref. 5053 with a sapphire back under the hunter case.

A total of 2000 were made in 18K yellow gold of which it is estimated 250 have returned to the market; 150 were made in 18K white gold with 43 identified for re-sale; of the 50 pieces made in platinum, only 15 have been identified on the open market so far.