What is the difference between the Patek Philippe Ellipse and the Golden Circle? The easy answer, and probably the most common, is just to call any elliptical-shaped Patek Philippe watch an Ellipse – or to use its correct name – a Golden Ellipse. But there are differences between an Ellipse and a Golden Circle and some other elliptical-shaped Patek Philippe watches that have established themselves as individuals with their own identity such as the Nautellipse, the horizontal Ellipse and the Beta 21.
Launched in 1968, the Patek Philippe Ellipse collection is at last experiencing the recognition and adulation that Collectability has always felt it deserves. In fact, we can now confidently say that the Ellipse is an iconic design and one of the most recognizable Patek Philippe watches along with the Calatrava and Nautilus. Who designed the original Ellipse is open to some debate, but the creation of shaped or form watches has always been important to Patek Philippe who did not see a watch case as needing to be round or rectangular.
Born in the jet-set era of the 1960s, the Ellipse and Golden Circle were inspired by the ancient, aesthetic rule for harmonious proportions: the ratio 1 to 1.6181 that dictates the perfect point at which to divide a line into two harmonious but unequal lengths. Also known as the Golden Section or Golden Rule (hence where the name Golden Ellipse and Golden Circle come from), this divine proportion is seen in nature – a human face or the spacing of buds on a branch – or manmade in architecture such the arc of a bridge or an archway on a building.
The refs. 3546 and 3548 were the first Ellipse watches ever produced and available with various dials including the instantly recognizable – and patented — blued gold dial. These remained in the catalog until 1976 when they were replaced with references 3746 and 3748, each fitted with the caliber 215. The ultra-thin ref. 3589 was launched in 1970 and stayed in the collection until 1979.
One of the longest running Ellipse references in terms of production is ref. 3738 which was produced from 1978. During its four decades of production, it was made with a myriad of dials and bracelet options. There were four main production series: First series 1978 -1988 with the caliber 240; Second series 1984 – 1999 with caliber 240 31; Third series 1999 – 2005 with caliber 240 111; Fourth series since 2005 with caliber 240 111.
One of collectors’ favorite models is the over-sized ref. 3605, also known as the “Jumbo Ellipse” made from 1971 to the early ‘80s. All of these, and the many other Ellipse references were made in a myriad of dial, bezel and bracelet designs resulting in a huge and diverse collection.
The Golden Circle may be a variation on a theme, but it has its own distinct characteristics. The first example, ref. 3566 appeared in 1966, closely followed by ref. 3544 a year before the Ellipse. At this stage, Patek Philippe had not finessed the Golden Ellipse, but it was obvious that the company appreciated the need for a new case design. The Golden Circle was initially a ‘squared circle’ but by the introduction of the ref. 3604 in 1971, it had truly established its own bold presence. Throughout the 1970s and early 80s, numerous variations of the Golden Circle appeared, some with lugs, some without. As the ‘disco-era’ took hold by the late 1970s, countless bezel variations were incorporated with the Golden Circle. The large dial offered a perfect canvas for exploring different finishes.
Perhaps the one watch that truly represents the purity of the Golden Circle design is the Beta 21 series. Presented at the Basel Fair in 1969, the ref. 3587 was the first wristwatch produced in series by Patek Philippe with a quartz movement. This revolutionary watch was presented in three variations: one with lugs and two without lugs and an attached bracelet. The large 14”’ quartz movement needed a substantial case, and the Golden Circle provided an elegant solution. In 1973, with a new detachable bracelet system the reference became ref. 3597 and the sought-after “cheese grater” bracelet design made its first appearance. Also added in 1973 was a Beta 21 version that more closely represented the Ellipse form: ref. 3603, yet this could easily be defined as an ‘Ellipse-inspired’ design.
Two other Ellipse-inspired designs that deserve noting are the horizontal Ellipse and the Nautellipse. The horizontal Ellipse – which is as the name suggests, is an Ellipse on its’ side, debuted before the classic Ellipse with the references 3371 and 3373 in 1967.
After the Ellipse was officially released in 1968, the horizontal Ellipse remained in the line with a multiple references and some striking dial variations, especially on the ref. 3845 where dial makers had fun with semi-precious and precious stones.
The horizontal Ellipse offered an interesting canvas for ladies watches and during the 1970s and 80s, countless decorated versions appeared that are now being recognized for their original design and value.
The Nautellipse ref. 3770 is an enigma – neither a Nautilus nor an Ellipse – and has recently become one of the most desirable and nearly impossible to find vintage watches. The Nautellipse is not an official description but an affectionate — and accurate — nickname. Designed by Gerald Genta, the genius behind the Nautilus and the Royal Oak, its quirky design was not fully appreciated when it debuted in 1980. Patek Philippe hoped it would provide a sports watch category for the popular Ellipse collection. However, by the early 1990s popularity for the Ellipse had faded and the Nautellipse with it.
Today, the quirky design of ref. 3770 is just what collectors are looking for and if you can find one it might an interesting alternative to the Nautilus. Collectability has sold almost a dozen examples of this important reference over the past 5 years but currently we have something even more rare and important on offer – the original painting by Gerald Genta of the VERY first design of the Nautellipse.
Last but not least is the ‘neither Ellipse or Golden Circle’ category. The celebrated ref. 3580A fits squarely within the Ellipse design vocabulary of the era, yet with a unique look that separates it from a pure Ellipse. Launched in 1972 – 1973, this backwind automatic was only made in steel. With only around 500 made, it has become a popular choice for Ellipse collectors looking for something a little different. The ref. 3855 is another variation on a theme but with a distinct look: neither an Ellipse or Golden Circle, but something in between. Perhaps getting its design cue from the disco-era, the ref. 3792 was launched in 1976 and available with or without a bracelet. The “tubogaz” bracelet version ref. 3792/1 must have caused quite a scene on the dance floor!
The Golden Ellipse, the Golden Circle and everything in between represent a distinct and important period of design in the Patek Philippe catalog. During the 1960s and 1970s, the Ellipse and Golden Circle were THE watches to be seen in. Now with the launch of the ref. 5738/1R-001 at this year’s Watches and Wonders, Patek Philippe is renewing its commitment to this iconic design. Fortunately for collectors, beautiful examples of the Ellipse family are available for substantially less than the USD60,000 required for the new ref. 5738/1R-001.
To learn more about the Golden Ellipse please read this in-depth Collectability article.
To learn more about the Beta 21 please read this in-depth Collectability article.
May 2024
