At Collectability, we are constantly on the hunt for a new Patek Philippe treasure and nothing beats discovering a watch that the world has never seen before while anxiously waiting for the archive to confirm that the watch you have in your hands matches the registry. This unique ref. 3593 is one of those extraordinary examples. Made in 1972 and first sold in 1987, this exceptional watch was born at Patek Philippe with a factory bracelet and is an unusual work of art making its public debut most appropriately on Collectability.
Never before seen in public, and never in literature, this ref. 3593 with a special request 18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet was especially made for an important client of the manufacture and delivered on August 5, 1987. The archive confirms that it was born with a bracelet. Upon first inspection, the astute eye will see the resemblance of the bracelet to the famous “cheese grater” bracelets occasionally seen on the Beta 21 ref. 3587. Incredibly, these bracelets were made in very small numbers for Patek Philippe in Pforzheim, Germany. How extraordinary it is that one of the most iconic of all Patek Philippe bracelets was made in Germany! Click here to see a similar white gold bracelet on a ref. 3587.
The links of the bracelet on this ref. 3593 are almost frosted in their appearance and the heavy thickness of bracelet matches boldly with the circular lines of the case. The two-piece case of this ref. 3593 was made by the celebrated casemaker Favre-Perret, the same casemaker as the Nautilus. The sharp corners, multiple polished finishes, and architectural construction of this watch certainly echo the lines of its nautical cousin.
The dial of this watch was especially made by Stern Fréres and features a deep blue color with white painted roman numerals. The white hands make the time boldly visible on the blue background and give this watch an entirely different look from the more common gilt or silvered dials typically seen on ref. 3593s.
The movement is a 28-255C, the Le-Coultre based caliber that was always used within the Nautilus. This workhorse automatic was the flattest and best quality of the self-winding calibers available in the 1970s. Finished to Patek Philippe’s high standards, the 28-255C allowed Patek to make thinner watches that could be placed within more ‘sporty’ references. The ref. 3593 was in production from 1970-1973 and although a dress watch, this water-resistant watch was one of the forebears of the Patek Philippe Nautilus line first launched in 1976.
Unique, fresh to market, mint and most importantly aesthetically pleasing, this Calatrava will please the most discerning collector of Patek Philippe watches.
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