PATEK PHILIPPE PLATINUM, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL ‘GUIRLANDE-STYLE’ PENDANT WATCH

During the early 20th century, highly decorated, ultra-thin ladies’ pendant watches were very much in fashion. Typically worn on a chain around the neck or with a lapel pin, these pieces were meant to convey status, and examples from Patek Philippe did not cut any corners. This example from 1909 features a blue enamel over engine-turned case set with an elaborately, hand-engraved filigree set with diamonds. The white enamel dial is finished with hand-painted Arabic numerals and gold Louis XV hands.

This pendant watch is from a distinctive, but short-lived design period from the end of the Art Nouveau period known as ‘guirlandes’ which greatly influenced pendant watches made from around 1908 – 1910. Visitors to the Patek Philippe Museum may recall the ‘Guirlandes’ display case which is full of delicate, exquisite pieces, mostly in platinum – the new metal of the era – decorated with translucent enamel. Typical of the guirlandes-style is a lace-effect, finely pierced design, usually of leaves and flowers, and decorated with diamonds. The back of the case of the watch was traditionally an engine-turned design, covered with translucent enamel and further embossed with filigree patterns and diamonds. Another distinguishing mark of the guirlandes-style is the richly decorated chains, usually echoing a design feature from the case as is the chain of this piece. A similar example from 1909 can be seen in the Patek Philippe Museum book, Volume 2, page 102.

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