Launched at the Basel Watch Fair in 1999, the ref. 5099RG immediately stood out as something of a departure for Patek Philippe. The Cabriolet case design, made of 18K white and rose gold was a master class in elegance and sophistication. This was a case that most people had never seen before; however, eagle-eyed visitors to the Patek Philippe Museum may well have recognized it as a homage to a special watch made in the late 1920s.
The original “Cabriolet” embodied the charm of a time long gone, when etiquette demanded that a gentleman gave his companion his full attention. A discrete look at the time on a watch would have been considered rude, and therefore, as a deterrent, the face was covered.
The case design was also a then-modern interpretation of the hunter case of a pocket watch – a practical cover that protected the dial. Because this watch was made at the height of the Art Deco period, the design was considered very avant garde – not too different to how it was perceived over 70 years later when the ref. 5099 was launched! Three examples of the original “Cabriolet” were made between 1927 and 1929 (No. 606 795 to No. 606 797). The piece in the Museum with its gilt metal dial, painted upright Dauphine numerals, minute track and a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock inspired the modern-day ref. 5099. What proved to be a challenge for the casemakers at Patek Philippe was reproducing the complicated and ingenious covered case.
The remarkable case and cover design took Patek Philippe three years to master and construct. It consists of 52 components, twice the normal number for a watch of this complexity. The 18K rose gold cover is distinctly decorated with two bands of 18K white gold which seamlessly merge into the white gold lugs. The imperceptible join of the two different colored golds is a credit to the master artisans of Patek Philippe. Simultaneous pressure on two buttons, each on the lower side of the case, gently opens the case as smoothly as a Bentley Continental convertible. The rose gold dial is also reflected in the mirror-polished gold interior of the cover (also useful for a quick lipstick check for female owners!)
The aesthetically brilliant case design inspired Patek Philippe to make a unique watch in 2005 for the Only Watch auction, followed by a limited series of Rare Handcraft editions in 2008. The first Only Watch made by Patek Philippe was a ref. 5099/101-RG-001 — a unique gem-set Cabriolet. The money raised from the sale of the Only Watch auction goes directly to fund research into finding a cure for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, a degenerative neuromuscular disorder that specifically affects children.
According to Patek Philippe’s sale description of the watch, the hinged cover was “engraved and set with precious stones to reflect the theme Recovery and Hope. Its symbolic elements are as follows: 1) the sun is represented by seven yellow sapphire stones that stand for hope, strength, and shining energy 2) the moon, intrinsically linked with the sun, is symbolized by five diamonds. It expresses sensitivity, protection, and love 3) the large diamond-paved heart denotes charity, openness, and generosity 4) the small heart, paved with six yellow sapphire stones, represents the child’s heart from which a ray points to the future, toward evolution and compassion 5) the horizon, represented by seven widening horizontal bands, is a symbol of hope and the path to recovery.” With an estimate of EUR 26,000 – 32,000 it sold for EUR 120,000.
Notably, this beautiful and unique watch was the only Patek Philippe that did not bring the top price at the inaugural Only Watch sale. Top honors went that year to a unique Richard Mille made in collaboration with Philippe Starck, the RM 005-1 sold for EUR 285,000.
Following the success of the engraved and gem-set case of the ref. 5099/101-RG-001 for the Only Watch auction, Patek Philippe created an additional eight Rare Handcraft pieces in 2008. One series consisted of four pieces decorated with Art Deco designs as a nod to the era of the launch of the first “Cabriolet” in the lates 1920s. The second series, also consisting of four pieces, featured delicate butterfly designs. Each engraved and jeweled piece was a unique creation.
The Gondolo Cabriolet ref. 5099 is a testament to the creative independence of Patek Philippe and was intended as a timepiece of interest to horological enthusiasts. Because of the complexity of the case, only a relatively small number were made over the eight years of production for this model. The retail price for the ref. 5099RG was CHF 25,900 in 2008, then a high price for a time-only watch, but evidence of the amount of work each piece required. So far, around 40 pieces have come to market and Collectability is honored to present an outstanding example made in 2000. For more information, see here.
August 2024
